Four Churches on Romney Marsh

Romney Marsh is a fascinating place. Bleak in places, pretty in others. There are remote corners that seem totally undisturbed.The area has over the centuries been reclaimed from the sea. Its history is well recorded elsewhere, so I won't go into those details. For the casual visitor the main problem seems to be finding the way around as the area now known as Romney Marsh, but actually made up of several distinct areas is criss-crossed with winding lanes. I started down the A20 turning off at Junction 10 just past Ashford onto the B2070 that heads towards Hastings. On reaching the roundabout at Brenzett I turned left onto the A259 that goes to New Romney. I was looking for a church that I had passed several times on my way to Dungeness Bird Reserve, and always thought that I should stop there. Well today I did. It is the church of St Clement at Old Romney.

The church can be clearly seen from the road and there is a turning on the left that leads you right to the gate. The setting for this church is truly picturesque set in beautiful green meadows and surrounded by Romney Marsh Sheep. There is a pond and a dyke that winds round two sides of the church. I went in the church gate across the small churchyard and out onto the meadow, a good spot for a photograph. I was able to find my way right round the church as there are gaps in the dykes which although a bit muddy (well it is February) were crossable as tree branches had been laid in the worst spots. I disturbed a rabbit which oddly enough darted up into the hollowed trunk of a tree. A little further round three Grey herons lifted into the air. They always see me before I see them.

I didn't have time to go inside the church as I was pushed for time. The short daylight hours of winter meant that I would only be able to photograph the outside views today, but having read about the interiors I realise that I will have to return in the summer. Derek Jarman, the Film Director, is buried in the churchyard. He lived almost on the beach at Dungeness and his wooden bungalow is well known.

After my walk round St Clements I got back in the car and went to Brookland, however on reflection I realise that I should have visited these churches in a different order.The one I should have gone to next is at St Mary in the Marsh. On leaving the small car park at Old Romney turn right into Five Vents Lane this leads directly to St Mary in the Marsh via a country crossroad where you go straight across. 

Wikipedia tells us all about it.

"St Mary in the Marsh is a village near New Romney in Kent, situated in the heart of Romney Marsh in one of its least populated areas, but with New Romney just 3 miles away, there are plenty of amenities close by. The village consists of a few homes,The Star Inn which provides a focal point for the local community, and a church, St Mary the Virgin. It is probable that there was a Saxon church on the site originally known as "Siwold's Circe". This was superseded after the Norman invasion by a stone built church with a splendid three tier tower of Kentish ragstone. The oldest parts of the church are about 1133 AD. The chancel was extended in about 1220 AD. Inside is a plaque commemorating Edith Nesbitt, author of "The Railway Children", who lived at St Mary's Bay and is buried in the churchyard. There are many interesting features of the building which warrant a visit.

St Mary in the Marsh is surrounded by the stark beauty of the marshes and the open landscapes of rich farmland."

There is no designated parking place here, but it is very quiet and parking at the side of the road is no problem. In actual fact this was my last stop, and I didn't spend as much time as I would have liked. Again another more leisurely visit is called for.

I am suggesting that in a more organized and relaxed visit than the one I had, that at this point I would retrace my steps to Old Romney, right onto the A259 and up to Brenzett. For those in need of petrol or refreshment there is petrol station and a Little Chef Restaurant, which I did visit for a couple of pancakes and a cappucino.

From there continue on the A259 towards Rye and Hastings and look out for the village of Brookland. The A259 actually bypasses the village so look out for the sign for the village centre. On the left you will see the highly unusual church of St Augustine. Take the first left by The Royal Oak and there is a car park on the right.

At this point I have to own up to cheating slightly with the photograph. It was taken from the Royal Oak car park and if you visit yourself you will almost certainly find that there are cars impingeing on the view. This was the case on my visit and I have taken the liberty of "airbrushing" them, and the wooden fence, out of the picture.

The striking feature of this church is the separate bell tower, which I have seen compared to a candle snuffer. It is believed that when the bells were made they were too heavy for the existing church to bear, so a separate tower was built. The entrance to the church is also unusual and to my untrained eye seemed to bear a resemblance to a stable door.

Rather than quote someone elses work I would refer you to the villagenet site that has an interesting article on the church.

http://www.villagenet.co.uk/rotherlevels/villages/brookland.php

Again a return trip seems to be inevitable. A recurring comment you may have noticed.

My suggested final stop of the day is probably the hardest to find, being unsignposted in any way, which I 

find hard to comprehend. I actually missed the turning completely the first time and ended up in Rye. I then consulted my map and found it.

On leaving Brookland, rejoin the A259 towards Rye. About a mile down the road just after crossing a small river the road does a sharp left turn. On the outside of the bend is a small lane which is the one you want.

If you reach the next sharp bend on the A259 this time to the right, or even reach Guildeford, you have gone too far.

Stay on this lane for about a mile and a half and you will see the remote church of St Thomas a Becket on the right,standing all alone on the marsh. (if you happen to look for it on Google Earth it is shown but on the wrong side of the road). When you are level with the church you will find a very small lay-by just about large enough for 2 cars. The gate that leads you to the church is right opposite you. If you should want to look inside the church, and it is worth a look, there are instructions by the gate on getting the key from a nearby cottage. I recommend that you get it before you set off for the church as it will save you a walk back.

An extremely remote but beguiling place this, with the church now isolated from human habitation. There was a village there around the church, but it is long gone.

If you think, as I did, that the church doesn't quite as old as it should, then you would be right. The outside was reconstructed in 1913 but I believe the inside is truly original. The church of St Thomas á Becket is supported by the Romney Marsh Historic Church Trust.

Here is a link to Villagenet for more information.

http://www.villagenet.co.uk/rotherlevels/villages/fairfield.php

You will have realised that this "Little Expedition" is more of a car trip than my usual hike through marshes, fields, and woods. All the places I have mentioned can be reached without climbing over stiles or gates, although the more adventurous of you might want to venture a little further. St Clement Old Romney, St Augustines Brookland and St Mary on the Marsh can be reached without any real walking at all. Only St Thomas at Fairfield has a short walk, and to paraphrase Noel Coward in "Private Lives" , " Very Flat, Romney Marsh!"

I may have confused you with my " where I went and where I should have gone" account of things. Below is a map showing the route I suggested. You may, or may not, find this useful, or you may want to find your own way around this fascinating landscape. If you are in the area there are other interesting places to visit. The old towns of Rye and Winchelsea, the RSPB reserve and shingle beach of Dungeness, and the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch Railway to name but a few. It's an area well worth exploring.